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you will need to use a 2 awg quality wire with a 75 amp fuse as close as you can get it to the battery.
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The book says use #12AWG wire if the power source connection is 4 ft or less. For longer cable lengths use #8 AWG wire for lengths to 10 feet. It says in either case, protect the positive wire from shorts by putting a 50-75 amp fuse/breaker as close as possible to the battery terminal.
I think I'll go by the guides AWG suggestions, I'll be using the #8 AWG "for lengths up to 10ft" because my stretch is probably going to run 7-9ft from the battery to the inverter.
You were right on target for the 75 amp fuse. I'll go for the 75 amp, as long as you have a fuse that's not rated (TOO) high, it should be safe.
How can I put a fuse in the circuit? I'd say cut half a foot of cable for battery to fuse, and then the rest of the cable can go from fuse to the inverter. How will I secure the fuse to the cable though? I was thinking of using one of those "car fuses" type of fuse, but I'd need a socket or something to insert the fuse in to (or I could solder it to the wire, perhaps)
Also, is the larger the AWGuage the thinner the wire gets? E.G. Would 0AWG be the thickest cable you could get?
[EDIT] Returned the inverter and Friday I'll get one that has screw hole mounts to mount to the metal of the truck.[/EDIT]
Original txt: I also think I'll return the inverter I have if I can find one that has "screw mounts" cause, after all, I'd like to be able to drill a hole and mount it to the metal of the truck so it doesn't slide around. (This one doesn't have holes or a way to mount it, it has this handle thing on it. It was designed for portable use I believe, and I don't want to try and retro fit it to be mountable)
As for the cabling, yeah, I'll be getting 8AWG, and I may (or may not) use the 600v cable to run the 110 from the inverter to the dash. Perhaps I could use a heavy duty extension cord or something instead.
Anyways,
Thanks!
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Jon